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Ekpyrotic Frood edited this page Jul 13, 2015 · 15 revisions

Minimum build ~$1,000

I estimate that the absolute minimum cost is going to be $1,000. Here I have included the minimum parts list with prices where I can.
This is the minimum cheapest build that will function. Upgrades and improvements will be on the next page. I will include links where I can find them to possible sources, although some small items I obtained locally from Radio Shack and/or Ace Hardware.

The majority of the robot I use is just an Arlo Robotic Platform from Parallax. Unfortunately Parallax does not yet sell a complete kit, so I will list he parts here for you. Everything here is also listed in the Arlo Robotic Platform System page.

Batteries

3D Sensor

ROS needs a "LIDAR" or "Laser Scanner", but they are expensive, so the TurtleBot, and our robot, uses a 3D camera sensor instead. This can be either an XBox 360 Kinect or an Asus XTION PRO LIVE/B/U Depth Sensor
NOTE: The XBox ONE sensor will not work.
NOTE: The Asus MUST be the "LIVE" version!
I suggest looking on Ebay for a Kinect sensor.

OR

  • Asus XTION PRO LIVE/B/U USB 2.0 and USB 3.0 RGB and Depth Sensor $169.99
    • The main benefits of the Asus over the Kinect are:
      • Smaller
      • Runs off of USB power
    • These are not out of production yet, but they are out of stock often. Just keep checking back.
    • Or I could be wrong, but as of the time I wrote this, they were still showing up in stock regularly on NewEgg, you just have to keep checking back.

Laptop Computer $200 to $300

ROS Runs on Ubuntu on a PC. It doesn't work on Android or Raspberry Pi. Maybe someday, but right now that is not going to accomplish the task.
The TurtleBot comes with an ASUS “Netbook” with an Atom N525 dual-core 1.8GHz CPU. While this works, I think it should be considered the absolute minimum for a usable laptop for ArloBot.

  • HP EliteBook 2760p from Ebay $250
    • This is what I bought. Obviously buying a laptop on Ebay is a crap shoot. Fortunately if it is beat up, or the keyboard or touch pad are broken that is ok.

If you have an old laptop, or can borrow one, that is the best way to get started. Once you figure out what you want, then keep an eye on Amazon and/or Ebay for one you can buy.
Remember that it is easy to dual boot Ubuntu with Windows, so you can always use a laptop that has to perform other duties to also run on the laptop.

Wire and Connectors

  • Wire from batteries to Arlo Power Distribution Board for 10 Amp 12V power.
  • Wire from Arlo Power Distribution Board to HB-25 Motor Controllers for 10 Amp 12V power.
    • The screw terminals on the Arlo Power Distribution Board are designed for 14-30 AWG wire, so consider 14 AWG as an upper limit. 16 AWG may be more manageable. While a lot of amperage may be used, most runs will be less than two feet, which means gauge is not a big issue. I used wire I already had from other projects.
  • Wire from Arlo Power Distribution Board to Activity Board for 6.5V power.
    • This can be small wire such as used on a battery holder or wall charger
  • Wire from Activity Board to HB-25 Motor Controllers for control signals
    • This can be tiny wire such as used on the PING sensor, it is only signals
  • Ring terminals x 4
    • You will need ring terminals to connect wire to the HB-25 screw posts. I’m not sure on the exact size here. I used some I already had on hand.
  • Female blade terminal x 4
    • For the two 1290 (or 1270/1280) batteries, you will need female blade terminals to connect wires to the batteries.
    • You can also buy batteries with other connectors. So be sure to have terminals that match those on your batteries.
  • 2.1 mm center-positive barrel plug
    • This is required to connect from the Arlo Power Distribution Board to the Activity Board.
    • I just cut the cord off of a battery holder from Parallax.

Resistors

  • 2 Resistors for Activity Board for HB-25 Motor Controller control pins
  • 1 Resistor for Activity Board for the PING Sensor pin.
    • According to the PING part of the Propeller C tutorial you need a 2 k-ohm pull-up resistor between the signal wire and the Propeller pin for each PING sensor.
    • Other tutorials list different resistor values for the same PING sensors and even some forums claim that the PING has the needed resistor built in. I’m not sure, I just know I used what was specified in the tutorial I noted.

Screws

  • 8 (or more) #6-32 x 1/2” Socket Cap Screws
    • Socket Cap Screws
    • I got these at my local Ace Hardware store. Note that "big box" home improvement stores don't seem to have these.
    • 4 to attach Activity Board to Arlo Robot Base Kit deck
      • NOTE: The Activity Board’s holes are not large enough for these screws, BUT if you use smaller screws they just slip into the holes in the Arlo Deck without threading. So I used a small drill bit and drill to enlarge the mounting holes in the Activity Board.
      • When mounting the Activity Board I suggest
    • 4 (2 each) to attach HB-25 Mounting Brackets to Arlo Robot Base Kit deck
    • You will doubtless find other uses for these screws that work so well with the pre-drilled holes in the Arlo deck, so get a bunch of them.
  • Nylon Spacers - I also suggest getting some short plastic/nylon spacers to put under the Activity Board, so that you can gently tighten the screws without pressing the board against the deck.
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